Best bakeries, secret vineyards, quiet streets, and where artists actually live today.

Montmartre has two identities running side by side: the one built for tour groups around Place du Tertre, and the one that's still, genuinely, a village on a hill. Telling them apart takes about ten minutes of walking in the right direction.

Skip the square, take the side streets

The caricature artists and overpriced cafés around Place du Tertre exist because that's where the buses stop. A few streets over, the neighborhood looks almost untouched — narrow lanes, working artist studios, and bakeries with no English menu.

• Rue de l'Abreuvoir for the neighborhood's prettiest corner
• The Montmartre vineyard, one of the last working vineyards in Paris
• Rue des Trois Frères for genuinely local shops and cafés

Go up to Sacré-Cœur for the view. Stay for the streets nobody photographs on the way there.